Good Wines, GREAT Meal, the end of Phase 1.

I think that wine country was put on this earth to remind us of how beautiful everything can be. After my fantastic four days with Liz in Sonoma, I eagerly hit the road on a course for Yountville, the land of all things Thomas Keller. There's wine there, too, I guess. I wasn't my best self as a driver, for the simple fact that I couldn't stop staring at my surroundings. Rolling hills covered in vines, spectacular parts of the drive through the petrified forest--I was, and still am in awe. I rolled into Yountville around 11:15, and was one of the first people at Bouchon when it opened at 11:30. I took an early lunch to be sure I'd get a seat. Lunch was amazing--Bouchon is TK's French bistro restaurant, serving unpretentious fare in a bistro setting. As I was alone, I sat at the bar, ordering oysters on the half shell, salmon tartare, and mussels with a saffron dijon broth. Everything was incredible, from the perfect mignonette that came with the oysters, to the salty-sour mussels. I ended up sitting between two parties who were obviously good friends, as they kept talking over and around me (they arrived after I did and sat on either side). I offered to slide over, which they declined, but my offer was rewarded soon thereafter. One of the diners was a master sommelier, Brian Cronin, and they were drinking a really interesting French white, of which he gave me a taste. I thought that was a really nice gesture, which he totally didn't have to do, but it also gave me an opportunity to ask if he knew another Master, which I knew he would, as it's a small community. 

After a more than satisfying lunch at Bouchon (where for the first 10 minutes I was holding back tears of excitement because I couldn't believe that I was ACTUALLY THERE), I headed to a few different wineries, namely Rombauer, Mumm and Silver Oak. Any more than three and I wouldn't have been able to drive myself anymore, which is why as I mentioned in a previous post, if I go back I'd like to do it with A) a group and B) a driver. The Rombauer grounds in particular were so beautiful, I couldn't believe it- flowers everywhere, such an idyllic setting to taste some new wines. I had a pretty early night after that, because I was exhausted and knew today would be a long one...

...which it was. I swung by Bouchon Bakery for some treats for my trip, then hit the road back to Los Angeles so I could return one car and pick up the other. With a combined total of 8 hours on the road, stopping only once for gas, and twice to nap for 20 minutes-- my efforts at a good night's sleep proved futile-- I finally made it back to Rick and Michie's place, where I am currently enjoying a well-deserved glass of wine before they get home. Tomorrow I will return my rental car, pick up Tim and Erika's, and phase 2 of my road trip will begin: The Drive Across the Country. First stop: LAS VEGAS.

Oysters and Everything is Good With the World

^^This picture represents all that is good with the world.^^

After San Francisco, I switched gears completely and came up to Sonoma county to visit my friend Liz. She lives in Healdsburg and works in the wine industry. She has a beautiful little house pretty much right in town, so everything is super convenient to walk to. I spent some time walking around the first day- since it was a Friday, Liz was still at work. There's some beautiful restaurants and shops, though most of them seem to cater to a higher-rolling clientele. Once Liz finished work, we went out to BobCat ranch, where her parents are retiring to. They have their own wine label, and gave me a couple bottles, which was really nice. BobCat ranch is a place that is meant for peace and serenity. Alongside the vineyard, there is a beautiful lake, complete with bullfrogs. I can picture it being an idyllic place for kids to go to, once grandchildren are in the picture. 

Saturday is up there as one of the top-ten best days of my life. After Sean (Liz's bf) came back from his run, the three of us packed up the car with picnic supplies and headed out to Tomales bay, an incredible place where you can buy oysters by the 50 and either shuck them raw or grill them on the grills provided by the picnic site. I was in heaven. First of all, I love oysters. Second of all, I love being part of a convivial, festive atmosphere. There is nothing wrong with an environment in which you can cook and eat as many oysters as you want, while drinking wine and beer, talking to good friends and looking out over a beautiful bay. I had made a mignonette sauce for the raw oysters, as well as a lemon-garlic-butter sauce for the cooked ones, and we had some Mexican-style corn with cotija cheese...it was the best, if I lived out here I would do that probably at least once a month, since it's about 50 minutes from San Francisco. Liz tried to convince me to move to Healdsburg and get a job in the wine industry, but it's too much of a small town. 

Yesterday, I was on my own because Liz went to work, so I went to a couple of wineries in the area, tasted some wine, bought a couple. It was really fun, but the kind of thing that I'd rather do with at least one other person and/or someone to drive us around. After that, this Healdsburg housewife came home and made dinner for Liz and Sean- sweet pea, mushroom and leek lasagna, which was pretty great if I do say so myself. 

Today, I'm off to Thomas Keller-land, aka Yountville. It's the promised land, and I can't wait to eat at at least one of his restaurants- the French Laundry is a no-go probably (I had a chance for a res on Friday, but I'll already be on my way home by then), but Bouchon and ad hoc are still there...! Time to hit the road again......

If You're Going...To San Francisco...

The past few days have been AMAZING. I feel like California's putting its best food forward to try and convince me to move out here...and it's working. The weather in San Francisco was gorgeous, although I know that's not normal. I ate at some incredible restaurants, did a LOT of walking, spent time with friends, had a breakfast meeting with a friend of a friend to try and figure out a potential job out here, and tried a SoulCycle class. Ian invited me to try one of his classes gratis, and I did, and...I understand why people get so into it. It's an incredible environment, this room full of people all doing the same exercise but also at their own pace, the thumping music, and the inspirational mantras coming from the podium. At my request, Ian created a 90s alt-rock/grunge playlist, which was amazing. I learned a couple of things: I'm terribly uncoordinated, and had trouble with literally every single movement, and that if I ever do it again, I'm going to get seat pads. I'll just leave it at that. 

One of the things I consciously did in San Francisco was ask questions and hear peoples' opinions on what it's actually like to live there. I joked that I was auditioning the city for a starring role in my life, and I think that's pretty accurate. it's easy to see the good parts of a city, especially with that incredible weather, but I wanted to hear the bad as well. The biggest complaint from people is the cost of living, something I'm familiar with, coming from NYC. On the other hand, I feel that people get so much more bang for their buck. I helped Ian move one day (read: brought champagne and watched him unpack boxes), and was taken aback at how much space he had (TWO walk-in closets) for less than I paid for a studio in midtown. He also had a ridiculous view that would fetch nearly twice that anywhere else. You pretty much need a car in the city, so that drives the cost of living up as well, especially the up-front costs with permits, etc. Parking is also a nightmare. Food in general seemed pretty reasonable, compared to the cost of eating in New York. At the end of the day, it's a question of if I can see myself being happy in a place, and I think the answer with regards to San Francisco is a resounding YES. I love the proximity to so many fun places. I love the sense of calm that resonates through the city. I love the abundant and varied food culture. I didn't hit half the places that were suggested to me, loved all the places I went to, and am eager to go try the rest. I loved the people I met, super laid-back and friendly. The jury's still out on SoulCycle, but they do have a number of CrossFit boxes, so I can pick my pain. 

We'll see what happens. As luck would have it, I've been in touch with a few people who MIGHT know of something regarding work that MIGHT be a reason to come back out here, and not just for the wedding of two of my favorite ladies. Who knows? Maybe the permanent vacation needs to become...permanent. 

Such Great Heights

I don't really have much to say about my time in Carmel or Monterey. Both places are so beautiful, but I feel like such touristy towns are almost harder when you're by yourself. Besides, I had bigger and better things to do. 

Let me tell you, the drive from Monterey to San Francisco up Route 1 is hands down one of the most breathtaking things I've ever experienced. I stopped a couple of times to just stand on a cliff and stare out into the vast blue of the ocean. With the waves crashing against the craggy rocks in a relentless, punishing rhythm, I was overcome by a sense of peace that has been missing in New York, where occasional glimpses of contrived nature clash noisily with the concrete jungle. It's a consistent cacophony of sounds and sights that assaults the senses and makes it near impossible to think straight. I have been looking for a place where I can breathe, and the dizzying cliffs at the edge of route 1 are damn near perfect. 

I arrived in San Francisco, finally turning on my GPS to take me to a Holiday Inn near Fisherman's Wharf. I had a little bit of sticker shock at the price of a night, but my desire to begin my exploration of the city won out, so I checked in. Quick change, then I was off to the Wharf, where I had a lunch of oysters and linguine with clams at one of a thousand seafood restaurants. It was actually really good, though it didn't hold a candle to Maialino's spaghettiini alle vongole, but then few others do. After walking around for a little bit, I went back to my room to relax because I was meeting Ian (former coworker) for dinner. 

In New York, if something is less than a mile away, you walk. I learned the hard way that you don't do that here. I was meeting Ian just about a mile away, so I set off...and upwards. THIS IS NOT A WALKING CITY. Those breathtaking vistas from atop San Francisco's hills are best reached via cab or cable car. However, at this point my stubbornness kicked in, and I pushed on, arriving at Ian's SoulCycle studio panting and sweaty, with a vague sense of accomplishment, not quite as great as climbing Everest, but maybe one of its foothills. Had a nice dinner and some drinks catching up with Ian, who relocated here from New York about a year ago, and has nothing but great things to say about living here. 

Day one in San Francisco was amazing. I love this city so much! The photo below is a view of one of the vertical streets I climbed.

Suuuuper-Smalltown, USA

Image of 'the steel rodeo'

I've been absent from posting for a couple of days because I spent those days in the middle of nowhere, with no internet access besides what 4G service I could get on my phone. After the hustle and bustle of LA (and a great night staying at Susan's house), Springville was a welcome retreat. Located 3.5 hours Northeast of LA, Springville is a tiny town in the Sierra Nevada foothills where my friend Kendra lives. Friday night it was raining, so we ended up going bowling, which she said is a common night-out activity in neighboring Porterville, which is the 'big' town. That was fun times, and gave me a chance to meet some of Kendra's friends, as well as get a feel for the nightlife. I did get into a heated debate with a guy at the bar over politics, but I need to learn to pick my battles in Republicanville...the next day was the main event: the Springville Rodeo. This thing is a big freaking deal. What seemed like the entire population of Springville (around 1,000) was there, as well as most of the neighboring towns. It was a pretty awesome rodeo, though rodeo will never be my favorite form of entertainment (poor animals). Kendra said that calf-tying doesn't hurt the calves, but I just don't see how that's possible when you're being jerked around the neck at top speeds. 

Some highlights from the rodeo:

- Denim on denim on denim, as far as the eyes could see. 

- A young boyscout half-heartedly selling sunflower seeds in the stands as his father followed him around.

- Churros and $4.00 beers 

-The Steel Rodeo, a high-flying BMX show that happened after the horses were put to bed

All in all, it was a great experience, and I'm glad I went out to Springville. The weather was a bit colder than I guess it usually is, but I'll just have to go back. It reminded me of all the things I loved about going to college in a small town. Kendra actually has a river going through her back yard, so I'll have to go back so we can go tubing. However, after eating like smalltown America for 2 days, I was pretty psyched to hit the road in search of some crisp, clean seafood. After a disappointing lunch in Carmel, I'm still looking.........Better luck in SAN FRANCISCO!!!

That's so L.A.

I had written this long post when I arrived the other day at Rick and Mich's house about our beautiful drive down to LA, and our (and then my) nights at Allison's, but I accidentally deleted it. I was so angry about it that I couldn't bear to try and write it again. Here are the main points, then I'll talk about the last couple of days:

-After the wedding brunch on Sunday, me, Oliver, Kinnon, Tee and Jess all drove down from Ojai to LA, along the Pacific Coast Highway whenever possible. 

-I can never get enough of the ocean, just staring at it. Sitting on the shores, whether East or West, I can stare into the ocean and see everything and nothing all at once. The horizon presents the promise of something on the other side, we just have to trust/know it's there (there's a metaphor there but I won't insult anyone's intelligence by belaboring the point).

-Oliver and Tee are crazy, and we stopped so they could jump in the freezing ocean. 

-After lunch in Venice, we went to an indoor-outdoor bar in Santa Monica, which was PACKED. We wondered if anyone actually had jobs, as this was a Sunday afternoon.

-We took a $25 Uber cab that lasted 4 minutes to go meet Allison's friends at a bar. We walked back, upon our insistence. Apparently everyone takes cabs here.

-Had a lovely dinner at Eveleigh. Our server had just moved out here a year ago from NYC, where he had worked at my favorite late-night joint, Blue Ribbon. 

-The next morning, we drove up to the Hollywood sign, so we could take some touristy photos. This accomplished, the others piled in the car, it wouldn't start, then finally got a jump and drove to the airport. 

-Monday night, Allison and I went to the Hot Tub, a comedy showcase at the Virgil in East Hollywood hosted by Kristen Schaal (she played the really weird page in 30 Rock who dated Kenneth). It was surprisingly funny, given that it was mostly experimental comedy, as well as a forum where comedians could try out new material. 

 Tuesday, Rick picked me up and brought me to his house. He and Mich live in this beautiful residential neighborhood that is perfectly serene, especially given how close it is to Hollywood Boulevard (more on that in a minute). He had a meeting, so I went shopping unsuccessfully, then after his meeting we went to Buffalo Exchange, where we both had a lot more success. After that, he had to go out for a bit, so I sat down and wrote the aforementioned doomed blog post, then when he came back we went out and got sushi. Yesterday morning, I got up and after looking at a map, realized how close they live to Hollywood Boulevard, like less than a mile! I spent the morning doing the touristy thing, walking up and down the Boulevard, looking for stars, then I went to the Hollywood Museum. It's in the old Max Factor building, where supposedly stars like Marilyn Monroe and Lucille Ball got their makeup done (in the same rooms that were preserved for people to gawk at now). A few highlights: the pill bottle found with Marilyn when she died, Elvis's tattered, peanut-butter-stained bathrobe, and a replica of Hannibal Lecter's cell. It really is the little things for me. Last night, we had a little dinner party with their friends from Australia and their roommate Dan, which was really fun. Today we are puttering around a bit, then I'm off to Susan's for my last night in LA!!! More later, miss everyone!  PS the picture above is of Pam Anderson and David Hasselhoff's swimsuits from Baywatch. I texted Oliver a picture. 

Here I Go Again On My Own...

Well, four years later, here I am again. One chapter closed, doing my best to figure out the next one. Having spent the last three years getting my Masters degree in Food Studies and working full-time at Maialino restaurant in NYC, I'm exhausted. I'm proud to have gotten my degree while working in an industry that is, arguably, one of the more challenging, both physically and emotionally. I come away from my time there with a stronger sense of how to manage people, as well as a continued love and passion for food, especially Italian. One of the greatest things that Maialino gave me, however, was a group of people who were both a joy to work with and to get to know individually. Leaving them was the hardest part of leaving the restaurant, but we had a baller going-away party and I look forward to crossing paths with them in the future. 

 What am I doing now? Having come out to California for my friend Tim and Erkia's wedding, I decided to stay on and explore this state that I don't know very well at all. Right now I'm in Los Angeles, staying with Allison. Oliver, Kinnon, Tee and Jess just left for the airport to go back to Boston, and I feel like my trip is really starting now. I look forward to seeing hopefully all the people I know and love in California, but I'm also excited to spend some time alone as I drive. 

 Los Angeles is like a foreign country to me. I speak the language, fortunately, but that's about as far as I can go. Shiny, happy people doesn't even begin to describe it. The one thing all of us were asking yesterday was, "don't these people ever work??" The East Coast is so career-driven, and people are almost defined first and foremost by what they do, where they went to school, etc. Not here. Allison confirmed my suspicion that a lot of friendships are forged by gauging what another person can do for the other, who do you know who can help me get ahead/get famous, and the like. This is certainly not to say that real, true friendships aren't forged here, but it seems to me that you have to work just a little bit harder to find the genuine ones. Also, coming from New York, the need to drive everywhere is insane to me. 

 I'm writing this from Allison's living room, sunshine pouring in from the sliding doors that overlook her pool, having just returned from a drive to go see the Hollywood sign, and even though I"m nervous about my time here, and I don't know what the future holds, I am convinced that I made the right choice. How could all this sunshine be wrong??